Stovetop Butterscotch Caramel Custard

With a side of meringue kisses.

Custard with chocolate wafers, a vermouth marinated cherry and an orange peel.

One might ask what butterscotch custard and meringue kisses have in common. The simple answer is eggs: the custard uses the yolks and the kisses use the whites.

And on yet another snowy Maine day, when I sought sanity in the sanctity of my kitchen, the trip down the rabbit hole began.

I am a huge fan of butterscotch, caramel, and toffee flavors. A while back, I read something about heating sweetened condensed milk until it turns golden brown and thickens and then spreading it out to cool and dry into toffee. I tried it and it turned out OK, but it's not ready for prime time yet.

Yes folks, Dreaming of Stove Top Custard

Since then, and here's how my mind works when I'm theoretically sleeping, I've been thinking about heating the sweetened condensed milk to just short of its toffee phase and using it as a base for custard. So during storm number too many, I set off on my adventure.

After doing some general research on proportions of milk to eggs to sugar, I came up with this recipe that pointedly eliminates cornstarch as a thickener and uses egg yolks to do that job. You'll find tons of recipes for custard in a water bath in the oven, I was hell bent on the stove top custard option -- I think I just like to stand around and stir and whisk things.

I started with a heavy saucepan and a can of sweetened condensed milk. I heated it over low heat stirring almost constantly until is began to turn golden. I was afraid to go too far because, as I recall, it went from creamy to sticky toffee really quickly,still so to account for my gun shyness,

To boost and insure that caramel and butterscotch flavor I was after, I added some butter and brown sugar to the pan and continued to stir constantly until the sugar was completely integrated and there was no sign of grittiness to the mixture.

Once this caramel / butterscotch base was completely smooth, I added a pinch of sea salt and the milk. I continued the heating and frequent stirring until just before boiling.

During this phase, I separated the eggs (reserving those whites.) and whisking the yolks until uniform in color and texture. Once the milk was just starting to bubble, I reduced the heat and with a ladle, whisked some of the hot milk into the eggs to 'temper' them so that they wouldn't cook when I added them to the pan.

Once the eggs were well blended with the milk mixture, with a whisk in one hand to stir, I poured (really drizzled) the eggs into the milk mixture while gently whisking. The key is to not let the mixture stick, scorch, or burn in the pot while you're taking it to somewhere between 170 and 180 degrees: that's the temperature range to ensure that it sets up while chilling but doesn't boil and curdle in the pan. If using cornstarch, you need to bring it to a boil to activate the starch, then it will tend to curdle, then if you're a perfectionist, you'll want to strain the curds out, then there is waste, blah, blah, blah. I vote for patience and egg yolks.

When I made this, I used an instant read thermometer to gauge the temp. When it hit 170, I stopped stirring -- just long enough to take a photo for this post. Guess what, in those few seconds it started to bubble and curdle. I removed it from the heat immediately and stirred like crazy. I didn't want to strain one bit of goodness out, so ended up with an almost smooth custard. (oh, the sacrifices we make for a photo). Next time, no photos and perfection!

Before setting it in the fridge, I placed plastic wrap right on the custard to avoid the skin forming. After a couple of hours, it was cool and set. What I like about this is that it's sweet, but in a rich way and not too sweet.

THE RECIPE:

1 (14oz) can of sweetened condensed milk

1/2 stick of butter

1C packed brown sugar

a pinch of sea salt

2C whole milk

6 large eggs, separated (reserve the whites for the meringue kisses)

In a large heave sauce pan, on low heat and stirring constantly, heat the sweetened condensed milk until it begins to turn golden.

Add the butter, salt, and brown sugar and stir and whisk until its smooth and the sugar is completely dissolved.

Add the milk and stir to combine.

Keep it on the low heat and stir frequently until it's almost bubbling / boiling -- but not.

In between the concessional stirring, whisk the egg yolks until uniform in color and texture.

Using a ladle, while whisking the yolks, add abut a half cup or the hot milk mixture to temper the eggs -- make sure to be whisking or stirring until that mixture is smooth.

Slowly pour the tempered yolks into the soon to be custard and stir constantly.

Using an instant read or candy thermometer, heat until the custard is between 170 and 180 degrees F. (don't stop stirring to take a picture) When the custard reaches temperature, remove it from the heat and immediately transfer to a serving bowl or ramekins.

Cover with plastic wrap directly on the custard surface (if you don't want the skin) and refrigerate for a few hours until cool and set.